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Langstroth hives for beginners
bostek
I currently have only Slovenian AŽ hive, but would like to learn also about Langstroth, because it is used everywhere and has advantages against our hive.

So where can i start? How do you work, what equipment do you need, when do you extend hive capacity, and so on... thanks
Beekeeper from Slovenia
 
http://www.cit.si
admin
I do not know what the AŽ are but they look very small to me Smile.
It's normal when one hive give 60-100 kg honey and if you have not enough room then they will swarm.
Bees live in main harvesting time in 4-6 boxes
So - I have no special equipment just my own hands...
I build frames yourself and I bought plastic hives. They should be painted (otherwize sun and bees will eat them).
Very useful is feeding box (15 l). In my boxes are 10 frames (some beekeepers put only 9, because this way they can uncap with machine)
I extend hive when in the top box 8 frames are full of bees. It's very comfortable to prevent swarming but it is not this topic right now.
Pluses -
1. You do not need special boxes to keep frames in warehouse
2. Observation takes only few minutes
3. Frames keeps distance self
4. Prevent swarming
5. Comfortable clean frames with air blower in honey harvesting time
etc.

Minuses -
1. Hive is soft and animals can destroy them easily
2. bees are little bit more angry in observation time (maybe only mine Smile

And this is my apiary pics
www.eurobees.eu/images/photoalbum/album_2/032.jpg
 
bostek
It looks great.

Aren't there more type of frame height? Normal, and some 2/3...?
Where do you put that feedeeing box? At the bottom?

So how many boxes of brood do you usually have? 2?
Beekeeper from Slovenia
 
http://www.cit.si
admin
I use only Langstroth frame 483 mm x 232 mm. Lots of beekeepers uses both - Langstroth and Farrar (483 mm x 137 mm). In spring Farrar boxes are very useful because then they will get capped first honey. Feeding box is on the top.
Brood is on 3 boxes to half of July. Then begins main harvest and I put queen to bottom.
 
bostek
Thanks for reply. I will get one hive next year and try it.
But i have to know diffrences before, so i can work properly...

When do you expand room for brood(new box), when do you know when are they strong enough?
Beekeeper from Slovenia
 
http://www.cit.si
admin
I put next box if 8 frames are full of bees (in top box). Then I take 2 frames of brood and replace them to manufactured combs or built combs. Then I take these frames of brood and put them in the middle of next box. Next them are built combs and then manufactured combs. This technique raises young bees to top and queen goes to this box happily Smile.
 
bostek
I understand. So after you have 3 boxes of young bees, then you add boxes for honey? Or reduce number of boxes for brood if necesary...how often do you check colonies?
Beekeeper from Slovenia
 
http://www.cit.si
admin
Yes - then I add new box and it depends.... where I put this Smile Maybe I have to add empty frames for brood and that case I put new box somewhere down. If I put new box to the top of hive then I add there again couple frames of brood.
Between 3-4 boxes I put queen excluder.
I check bees ca once in week. Then I can see when they prepare to swarm. Observation is very easy. Before swarm they almost always built queen cell bottom of second box. Only thing what you must to do is turn second box and look Smile If you see there queen cell (with eggs) you have to do thorough observation. And one very good thing dealing with Langstroth hives - they are not heavy and you can easily make "flying colonies" for example (my favorite way to do new colonies).
 
admin
Yes - then I add new box and it depends.... where I put this Smile Maybe I have to add empty frames for brood and that case I put new box somewhere down. If I put new box to the top of hive then I add there again couple frames of brood.
Between 3-4 boxes I put queen excluder.
I check bees ca once in week. Then I can see when they prepare to swarm. Observation is very easy. Before swarm they almost always built queen cell bottom of second box. Only thing what you must to do is turn second box and look Smile If you see there queen cell (with eggs) you have to do thorough observation. And one very good thing dealing with Langstroth hives - they are not heavy and you can easily make "flying colonies" for example (my favorite way to do new colonies).
 
bostek
Is you hive opened at the bottom? They say that air flows better, and when varoa falls down, it can't go up again...what is you opinion?
Beekeeper from Slovenia
 
http://www.cit.si
admin
Yes - floor is open. I close it with plate (there are special slot for plate) only when I'm doing varroa control and in spring, when I put extra food. Then they will do more brood. Question is not about better air movig, but those hives is missing air holes on top. All air moving going through the floor and flying hole. I do not know, can the varroa go up again after falling. If he falls trough the floor's net, then I think he can not go back to the hive.
 
bostek
What about placing hive - do you place lets say bricks under it, or you put it on the ground?
Do you have to weight it down? So wind can't puch it over?
Beekeeper from Slovenia
 
http://www.cit.si
admin
Bricks are too low. I put bricks on the ground and then n bricks this www.eurobees.eu/images/photoalbum/album_2/euro.jpg . We call it eurobase... On one base I put 2 hives. Wind never push it over. Never (exl maybe very strong storm we never have).
 
bostek
So how much above ground should the hive be? Don't know what kind of bricks do you have there Smile
Beekeeper from Slovenia
 
http://www.cit.si
admin
ca 20cm. Bricks are ca 10 cm and "eurobase" is same. You can see bricks on the top of my hives (post on 28-10-2011 18:31 )
 
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